Category: 1 Day Projects

DIY Rustic Blanket Ladder

diy blanket ladder for a baby s room, bedroom ideas, diy, how to, woodworking projects

Make this for $5. You don’t have to spend $179 for that.

  • diy blanket ladder for a baby s room, bedroom ideas, diy, how to, woodworking projects
Not much is needed.
2 – 1x3x8 each cut down to 5′
1 – 1x2x8 cut into 5 -15″ pieces
10 – 1″ pocket screws
Stain or Paint of Choice
Felt bars/stickers
Fine Sanding Paper
  • diy blanket ladder for a baby s room, bedroom ideas, diy, how to, woodworking projects
Stain then sand before assembling.
  • diy blanket ladder for a baby s room, bedroom ideas, diy, how to, woodworking projects
And there you have it. A blanket ladder. Truth be told you can even store towels or magazines on this.
  • diy blanket ladder for a baby s room, bedroom ideas, diy, how to, woodworking projects
Other options include painting it to match the sex of the baby or the decor of the nursery.

Full directions and more pictures at:

How To Make Rustic Patchwork Stars

I hope you all are having a wonderful Christmas season.  This summer I made a patriotic Americana Door hanger, and loved the look of the ‘sewn’ star.  Then while flipping through the Christmas Pottery Barn kids magazine, I saw their rustic star ornaments…and knew it was time to make some more stars!

Easily add natural elements into your Christmas decor with these simple patchwork rustic stars. Free pattern and tutorial.

How to Make Rustic Patchwork Stars


The star pattern includes 2 sizes of stars.  The large star is about 13 1/2″ wide, the small star is about 7 1/2″ wide.  Print out the Patchwork star pattern, when printing make sure your print settings are on 100%, not ‘fit to page’.  Cut out the diamond pattern(s).  Trace 5 diamonds on a piece of wood for each star that you’d like to make.

Use a jig saw, band saw, scroll saw or even a hand saw to cut out the diamonds.  I love working with weathered wood.  Look at all of that natural character!

Easily add natural elements into your Christmas decor with these simple patchwork rustic stars. Free pattern and tutorial.

The gauge (size) of the wire used to tie the star pieces together isn’t very important.  Grab a drill bit that is slightly larger than the size of wire.  Drill adjacent holes for each joint.  I only made one set of holes, you may want to add a second set of holes closer to the center.

Easily add natural elements into your Christmas decor with these simple patchwork rustic stars. Free pattern and tutorial.

Thread the wire through the adjacent holes and twist it together tightly.  Repeat for each set of holes.  To make the rustic stars an ornament, drill a hole through the top of one of the star points and add a loop of wire.

Easily add natural elements into your Christmas decor with these simple patchwork rustic stars. Free pattern and tutorial.

I wanted to make some of the rustic stars free standing, for a table decoration.  I drilled a 3/8″ hole about 1″ deep through the bottom of the star.  Cut a piece of 3/8″ dowel according to the height you need.  Cut a small piece of 2″ x 4″ wood and drill a 3/8″ hole.  Place the dowel in the wood block and star.  Add a bow if you’d like.

Easily add natural elements into your Christmas decor with these simple patchwork rustic stars. Free pattern and tutorial.

The stars also make a cute vignette, or they can be used as a backdrop for your nativity set.

Easily add natural elements into your Christmas decor with these simple patchwork rustic stars. Free pattern and tutorial.

Article Cred:

How to Make and Easy DIY Wood Slice Service Board

How to: Make an Easy DIY Wood Slice Serving Board

created at: 02/25/2014

Sometimes, the best DIY projects are also the simplest. This rustic cheese board takes less than an hour to whip up, and costs less than $10.00 in materials. Plus, it’s easy to create even if you don’t have access to a huge forest or wood pile, and doesn’t require a chainsaw or any fancy power tools.

Let’s make one!

Tools and Materials: 

  • Wood slice – we used a basswood round from the craft store
  • Stiff brush
  • Sandpaper – 150 and 220 grits
  • Mineral oil or butcher block oil

created at: 02/25/2014

1. The key to this project is finding the appropriately sized wooden slice. If you have access to large hardwood stumps or limbs that have been dried or seasoned, they’d be perfect. If not, you can find basswood slices in the unfinished wood section of the craft/art supply store, or easily on Amazon. Once you’ve procured your slice, it’s just about prepping it for food use.


created at: 02/25/2014

2. Begin by using a stiff-bristled brush to clean the bark. Make sure to remove any moss or lichen, as well as any loose bark or debris that will fall off easily and could mix with comestibles. If you have access to compressed air, give the bark a few blasts to really get rid of any dirt.


created at: 02/25/2014

3. Then, sand both sides throughly with 150 grit then 220 grit paper. A powered sander is helpful here, but a simple hand sanding block works just as well. Be sure to keep the sandpaper flat against the surface so as to avoid rounding over the edges or interfering with the bark.


created at: 02/25/2014

4. Lastly, finish the slice with mineral oil or butcher block conditioner. Since basswood is a relatively soft wood and you’re applying to the end grain, it’ll will soak up a lot of finish. End grain is basically a bunch of little straws all lined up, and they’ll happily accept as much liquid as they can get.

To apply, simply flood the mineral oil onto a side, and wipe with a clean rag to distribute. You may see a bit of blotchiness at the beginning, but that will subside as the wood becomes fully saturated.  After 30 minutes or so, repeat with a second coat. Allow the finish to soak in overnight, and then add a third and fourth coat if necessary.


created at: 02/25/2014

Once the finish has fully dried, your wood slice board is ready to use. It’s important to note that this really isn’t a cutting board or butcher block. Basswood is a relatively soft wood (it’s easy to carve, which is why they sell it at the craft store), so don’t go hacking at a chicken carcass with a super sharp clever. But, since it’s exposed end grain, and wood is naturally self-healing, most light scuffs will be invisible with a fresh coat of mineral oil. Plus, I kinda like a bit of knife wear-and-tear; it gives the piece a more rustic, worn-in look with plenty of character.


created at: 02/25/2014

The project’s round shape and light weight makes it perfect for serving charcuterie, cheese, and other staples. Or, it’ll work great for other dry foods like desserts, cured meats and fish, or small bowls of pickles and sauces. I’ve been using mine in our bar area for assembling cocktails, cutting citrus, etc.



created at: 02/25/2014

These basswood slices cost less than $15.00, and you can always find a 40-50% coupon for all the major craft stores at their web site or mobile app. So, $7.00 in materials plus a little sandpaper, some mineral oil, and about an hour of work.

Enjoy! If you make one, we’d love to see it. Share a photo of your project in the comments below or mention @ManMadeDIY on Instagram or Twitter.

Article found –

Make a Dog Leash Hanger In One Day

We used to keep our dog leashes stuffed on a shelf in the entryway closet, which is not a very convenient place, especially when pretty much everything that you don’t have any room for in the rest of your house also gets stuffed in said closet, burying the dog leashes so you have to pretty much remove every single piece of useless junk in order to get a single leash…..  So not fun.  So, I decided to do something about that.  I created a decorative dog leash hanger that I can hang near the front door.

DIY Dog Leash Hanger

This was a quick weekend project and I think it came out really cute!  Here is how I made it:


  • 1 – 1 x 12 @ 4 ft
  • 1 – 1 x 4
  • Kreg Jig
  • 1 1/4″ Kreg Pocket hole screws
  • wood glue
  • “Love is a four-legged word” stencil (I purchased the 11.25″ stencil here )
  • Stain
  • White spray paint
  • Polyurethane spray
  • chalkboard labels
  • Robe hooks (2) – I purchased these at Home Depot as a pack of 6
  • 3/4″ screws (4)

Cut List:

  • 1 – 1 x 12 @ 20″
  • 1 – 1 x 4 @ 7 1/2″


Begin by cutting a 1×12 board to 20″ in length.

Cut a 1x12 to 20"

Cut a 1×12 to 20″

Next, cut a 1×4 board to 7″ in length.  Using the Kreg Jig,  drill two 3/4″ holes into one side of the 7 1/2″  1×4.

Drill two 3/4 pocket holes into one side of 1x4 using Kreg Jig

Drill two 3/4″ pocket holes into one side of 1×4 using Kreg Jig


Drill two 3/4" pocket holes into 1 side of 1x4

Drill two 3/4″ pocket holes into one side of the 1×4

Using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue,  attach the 1×4 board so the left side of the 1×4 is lined up with the left side of the 1×12.  The top of the 1×4 shelf should start 10 3/4″ from the top of the 1×12 board.

Attach 1x4 shelf to 1x12, so the left sides are lined up

Attach 1×4 shelf to 1×12, so the left sides are lined up


Attach 1x4 with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws

Attach 1×4 with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws


Attach 1x4 to 1x12 10 3/4" from top

Attach 1×4 10 3/4″ from top

Sand the boards and then stain with your stain of choice (I used Minwax Dark Walnut).   Once the stain has dried,  I placed the stencil I purchased onto the location above the shelf on the 1×12 board (center the stencil on this section of the board.  I then covered the remainder of the board with old rags so I wouldn’t get white paint on other sections of the board.

Place stencil on 1x12

Place stencil on 1×12

Once the stencil is in place,  use white spray paint (I used Rustoleum Heirloom White) to spray the stencil area.  To keep the paint from bleeding under the stencil, I lightly sprayed a coat of paint, then used a hair dryer on the high heat setting to quickly dry the paint.  I repeated this process several times until the paint was bright white, and I couldn’t see any stained wood through the paint.  I then removed the stencil.

Wording stenciled onto wood

Wording stenciled onto wood

Once the paint had completely dried,  I sprayed three coats of polyurethane onto the board, letting the varnish dry between each coat.  After the final coat of polyurethane was dry, I added the chalkboard labels and the hooks.

The chalkboard labels were purchased at Hobby Lobby in a pack of 12  and the hooks were purchased at Home Depot in a pack of 6.  I also had to purchase smaller screws to attach the hooks to the board (the screws that came with the hooks are over an 1″ long and will go all the way through the 1×12 board.

I placed two chalkboard labels about an inch underneath the bottom of the shelf, spacing them evenly apart.  I used a little extra glue under the labels (I used a glue stick) as the labels were not sticky enough to adhere well to the wood.

I then attached a robe hook underneath each label.  The robe hooks were attached 2″ up from the bottom of the 1×12 board and were centered underneath each of the chalkboard labels.  Here is the finished version of the dog leash holder:

DIY Dog Leash Hanger

DIY Dog Leash Hanger

The shelf is a great location to hold treats or doggy bags, or a picture of your awesome pet!

DIY Dog Leash Hanger

DIY Dog Leash Hanger


DIY Dog Leash Hanger

DIY Dog Leash Hanger


DIY Dog Leash Hanger

DIY Dog Leash Hanger


DIY Dog Leash Hanger

DIY Dog Leash Hanger

Article Sourced at –

How to Build a Floating Picture Ledge

Picture Ledge – Faux Reclaimed Beam

DIY Faux Beam Picture LedgeI’ve installed a picture ledge and some lights and now my studio “feature wall” is complete!  It’s a small success but I like to celebrate achievement – regardless of size.  I built and finished the picture ledge to look like an old, reclaimed beam and I love it against the brick and plaster wall  backdrop.  I actually built two but when it came time to install, I decided only one would fit.  Maybe I’ll find a spot somewhere for the extra one but each picture ledge only cost me $8 in materials so I won’t mind if all it does is sit in my scrap pile until I find another use for it. My picture ledge is 72″ long and made of one 2×4 and three 1×4 furring strips. The lights are the Academy task swing-arm sconce in antique brushed nickel from Restoration Hardware Baby & Child.  RH has almost exactly the same lights fin different finishes for an additional $159.  The RH Baby&Child site had the finish I wanted and cost less so it wasn’t hard to choose.

Picture Ledge

I ripped the 2×4 in half. One half will be secured to the wall onto which the picture ledge will be mounted.  The other half will be part of the picture ledge itself.  Without a table saw, one could purchase two 2×2’s and recreate this project with almost all the work already done for them.  I happened to already have a pile of 2×4’s on hand so I decided to use what I had instead of purchasing more.

Faux Beam Picture Ledge

I sorted through the 1×4 furring strips to find three that looked similar in color and then arranged by appearance to create a front, top and bottom for my “beam”.  I generously applied glue to three sides of my 2×2 as well as to the pairing 1×4.Picture Rail

Then I sandwiched the 2×2 between the “top” and “bottom” furring strips and secured that tightly with a handful of clamps.Picture Rail

Then I used more clamps to secure the wood sandwich to the “front” furring strip and left that overnight to dry.Faux Beam Picture Rail

I scraped up any dried glue and made sure to bang and whack a lot of new “distress marks” into my lumber.Picture Rail

I want my picture ledge to look old but I don’t want splinters from it so I sanded it smooth to the touch without removing the imperfections.Picture Rail

Finishing with Briwax

I finished my picture ledge with Briwax in Light Brown and Ebony.  I apply with with an old T-Shirt rag focusing on getting it into all the nooks and crannies.  It’s easiest to apply Briwax when it’s soft or melted, either from the sun or a heat gun.

Finishing with Briwax

It’s a really fun process to work with Briwax.  It dries very quickly so you can re-coat in a matter of minutes.  I just keep playing around with it until I like the results.Finishing with Briwax

I drilled  two 1/4″ holes in each end and glued in some wood dowels for an additional touch of realism to my reclaimed wood beam – dream.Faux Beam Picture Rail

Penny helped me install my picture ledge.  She first held it in place while I stood back and put up with me while I instructed her to move it down 4″,now too far, left 1″, ahh – too much…and so on until we got it exactly where it made my eyes happy.  I had to locate the studs and my new Zircon stud finder worked through the brick paneling.  Thank heaven!  I used 3″ construction screws to secure the wall cleat (which was the leftover 2×2) on the right side.  Then we used a long level to level the cleat and I secured it on the left.  Then I drove screws into all the studs in between.Faux Beam Picture Rail

The picture ledge slid right onto the wall cleat and I shot a few nails through the top of the picture ledge into the cleat to secure it.  It is sturdy!  If you recreate this picture ledge, don’t forget to finish the ends of the wall cleat same as your shelf.  It remains visible.Distressed Wood Picture Ledge

The front furring strip is taller than the wood sandwich portion which is what creates the lip on the ledge to hold your picture frames from falling off.  You could also use this for a plate rack or use wider material for a deeper shelf.

Faux Beam Picture Rail

The picture ledge was a really quick, easy and inexpensive project — which was FUN when most of my projects take weeks to months to complete.  It’s also FUUUUN to see the studio start coming together!  I’ve created a build video for those that like videos and below is a smattering of “Reveal photos” because I apparently go wild for reveal photos when it’s a completed project!


Faux Beam Picture Ledge

Distressed Wood Picture Ledge

Faux Beam Picture Rail




Faux Beam Picture Rail

Faux Beam Picture Rail

Awesome little project by See her original post –

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